Fingers in the Honeypot
5.12 PG13 trad · 120 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 6 of 11 from left to right on Mud Spring Wing, with Spirit Air on its left and Man of the People on its right. Mud Spring Wing has 11 routes, from 5.7 to 5.12c; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Unknown.
Description
Fingers in the Honeypot is a line that, in my opinion, is undeserving of the recommendation found in Red Rocks - A Climber's Guide II. The line is squeezed between two much better climbs, has some inexplicably unprotected stretches of climbing, is much harder than it's given rating, and has much hollow rock on the upper two thirds of the route. Begin by climbing past 5 tightly-spaced bolts. Thin. Not much to work with here. Above this, the bolts end in favor of sporadic and sketchy RP placements. More insecure, thin climbing leads to easier climbing that wanders back and forth up crunchy features before the route finally joins the upper few bolts of Man of the People.
Protection
A light rack, but include RP's and perhaps check this thing out on TR first?
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Mud Spring Wing
- Spirit Air 5.11c
- Mito 5.8
- Gadgers Edge 5.12c
- Man of the People 5.11a
- Beautiful Bastard 5.10
- The Schwa 5.10d
- Schwalli 5.9
- The Jagged Edge 5.11b
- Schwallow 5.7
- The Long Riders 5.12-