Killjoy
5.10d trad · 120 ft · ★★★☆
Route 1 of 2 from left to right on Tattle Tale Gully, with Clear Cut on its right. Tattle Tale Gully has 2 routes, from 5.10d to 5.11a; 1 is harder.
First ascent: FA: UnknownFFA: Joshua Janes & Joanne Urioste
Description
Killjoy is an attractive, long pitch of crack climbing located way up the Tattle Tale Gully. Begin on the obvious, varnished slab by climbing splitter fingers and hands to a small roof. Move right around this roof to a stance, then launch up the wide hands to fists to rattly fists corner crack. Upon reaching the enormous wedged flake, step left into a seamed out corner with occasional pods that accept pro and fingers. Rappel with a 70m rope (watch your ends!).
Location
Located up the Tattle Tale Gully, this route is exactly 600 feet from the start of Olive Oil. Once you scramble through the notch to enter the gully, tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis (the obvious, beautiful leaning wide crack) and continue scrambling along the righthand wall for another 450 feet. The routes are on the right. And yes, I did say "tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis".
Protection
1x tiny to #0.4 Camalot. 2x #0.5-#4 Camalot. 1x #5 Camalot (optional). Medium wires. 70m rope.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Tattle Tale Gully
- Clear Cut 5.11a