Clear Cut
5.11a trad · 80 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 2 of 2 from left to right on Tattle Tale Gully, with Killjoy on its left. Tattle Tale Gully has 2 routes, from 5.10d to 5.11a; this is the hardest.
First ascent: FA: UnknownFFA: Joshua Janes & Joanne Urioste
Description
Clear Cut is a fun and challenging little pitch just right of Killjoy. Belay from the lowest flat area and scramble up an easy corner to a ledge. From here carefully step right into the obvious left-facing flake and place your first piece. Continue up the flake being judicious with gear placements and climbing delicately as the flake is hollow for a 10-15 foot stretch. Above this move left on excellent varnish to a stance (crux). Pull onto the steep wall above and up on surprisingly good holds to an anchor above a ledge. Instead of taking the steep headwall, it is also possible to continue left from the stance following the flake all the way to its end.
Location
Located up the Tattle Tale Gully, this route is exactly 600 feet from the start of Olive Oil. Once you scramble through the notch to enter the gully, tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis (the obvious, beautiful leaning wide crack) and continue scrambling along the righthand wall for another 450 feet. The routes are on the right. And yes, I did say "tunnel up underneath Heinous Penis".
Protection
1x tiny to 0.75 Camalot. No wires needed.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Tattle Tale Gully
- Killjoy 5.10d