The Undertone
5.10d trad · 2 pitches · 300 ft · ★★★★
Route 5 of 5 from left to right on Slippery Buttress, with Tongue and Groove on its left. Slippery Buttress has 5 routes, from 5.5 to 5.10d; this is the hardest.
First ascent: unknown
Description
The Undertone is the gem of the Slippery Buttress routes. It climbs an exposed position along the right edge of the buttress connecting interesting features up a beautiful stretch of rock. There is plenty of 5.9 and 5.10a slabbing and thin face climbing, but the actual crux is the upper corner.
Protection
A single set of cams from tiny (Purple C3 or Black Alien) to #1 Camalot. Aliens or other flexible small cams are ideal. Wires. No RP's needed. Draws. An 80m rope or two ropes.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Slippery Buttress
- Tongue and Groove 5.10c
- Slippermen 5.10b
- Slip of the Arrow 5.7+
- Burn Your Feelings 5.5