Porch Pirate
5.11b PG13 trad · 100 ft · ★★★☆
Route 4 of 25 from left to right on Kraft Crags, with DNR1 on its left and DNR2 on its right. Kraft Crags has 27 routes, from 5.8 to 5.11b PG13; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Van Betten, Crawford, Mamusia - 1986
Description
Porch Pirate is a fun face climb that gets a lot of sun and has a really short approach - great for a winter afternoon. Soft rock and some so-so pro keep it head's up, but it is not overly dangerous for a seasoned climber comfortable at the grade. The climb tackles the center of a nice triangular shield of rock above the classic Plumber's Crack boulder problem and left of Classic Crack of Calico. Scramble up to a ledge system from the right side to get to the start of the route. Climb some steep, hollow rock to an obtuse corner - this section has pro of questionable quality, but there's enough to keep it sane. Above the corner, climb the nice varnished face past a few bolts to an anchor at the top of the wall. Lower off with a 60m rope, or, with a 70m rope, you can skip the initial approach scramble (recommended).
Location
Above Plumber's Crack, left of Classic Crack of Calico.
Protection
1x to #2 Camalot, wires. A few bolts. Some have been replaced but the two upper ones are the original 3/8" bolts with new hangers only - and I don't know if the bolts are wedge bolts or split-shafts (so in other words, they might be bad). There is a good bolted anchor however.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Kraft Crags
- Semi-Professional Moron 5.10a
- The Last Calico 5.10b
- Shark Attack 5.9+
- Classic Crack of Calico 5.9+
- Schrödinger's Calico 5.9 PG13
- Chiaroscuro 5.10- R
- Crack a Lu 5.10b/c
- DNR1 5.8
- DNR10 5.8
- DNR11 5.8
- DNR12 5.8
- DNR13 5.8
- DNR14 5.8
- DNR2 5.8
- DNR3 5.8
- DNR4 5.8
- DNR5 5.8
- DNR6 5.8
- DNR7 5.8
- DNR8 5.8 R
- DNR9 5.8
- Kiplings’ Korners 5.8
- McQuade Route 5.10
- Partners in Crime 5.10-
- Three’s Company 5.8
- Second to Last 5.11+