The Elder Wand
5.12 trad · 100 ft · ★★★★
Route 9 of 15 from left to right on The Rad Cliff, with The Chamber of Secrets on its left and Falling Rein on its right. The Rad Cliff has 15 routes, from 5.6 to 5.12; this is the hardest.
First ascent: Unknown. Lore suggests Antioch Peverell but this is contested.
Description
“You talk about wands like they’ve got feelings,” said Harry, “like they can think for themselves.” “The wand chooses the wizard,” said Ollivander. “That much has always been clear to those of us who have studied wandlore.” “A person can still use a wand that hasn’t chosen them, though?” asked Harry. “Oh yes, if you are any wizard at all you will be able to channel your magic through almost any instrument. The best results, however, must always come where there is the strongest affinity between wizard and wand. These connections are complex. An initial attraction, and then a mutual quest for experience, the wand learning from the wizard, the wizard from the wand.” -Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows A mantle. A thumbdercling. Crimps. Pinches. Pistol squats (yes, plural). Multiple cruxes. Highly technical. Delicate features - do not break them. A beautiful climb. 11d for pure-blood witches and wizards. 12d for muggles.
Location
Begin climbing at the left edge of a pretty grey wall. This is immediately right of the Chamber of Secrets.
Protection
10x bolts. There’s a lower-off. Someone must follow the pitch to clean it.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to The Rad Cliff — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Rad Cliff
- Rita Skeeter 5.9 R
- The Fright of the Phoenix 5.7
- Azkaban Jam 5.9
- The Chamber of Secrets 5.7
- Moaning Myrtle 5.9
- Basilisk Fang 5.7
- Diagon Alley 5.7
- The Dementor 5.10 R
- Get Rad 5.8
- First Grader 5.6
- Falling Rein 5.7
- Dark Arts 5.9
- Back to Basics 5.7
- Cadillac Crack 5.9