The Dementor

5.10 R trad · 3 pitches · 150 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 5 of 15 from left to right on The Rad Cliff, with Moaning Myrtle on its left and Basilisk Fang on its right. The Rad Cliff has 15 routes, from 5.6 to 5.12; 1 is harder.

First ascent: Larry DeAngelo & Paul Crosby

Hikes, approaches and descents

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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