Wandering in the Wilderness

5.12b sport · 80 ft · 8 bolts · ★★☆☆

Route 12 of 16 from left to right on The Promised Land, with Fistful of Dreadlocks on its left and Truth or Dare on its right. The Promised Land has 18 routes, from 5.11b to 5.14c; 14 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.

First ascent: Dan McQuade

Description

This is a fun route that is a bit tricky to read - probably due to lack of traffic. The climb takes the leftmost line of bolts off the ramp to an anchor in the highest roof. Begin by scrambling up the ramp via the fixed line and have your belayer perch on the first level spot you come to - perhaps best to have him/her clip in to the lone cold-shut bolt for safety. Either stick clip the first bolt and climb directly up, or traverse in from the right clipping an off-route bolt then back-cleaning once the first bolt is clipped. Some steep pulls lead to a reachy move left to a hidden jug. Work up and left to a rest, then move back right past some tricky moves and a few nice drip features and pockets.

Protection

8 bolts. I put a long sling on the 4th or 5th (the leftmost one). With a 60m rope you and your partner can lower each other from the anchor all the way back to the ground below the ramp.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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