Bury the Hatchet

5.12a trad · 2 pitches · 150 ft · ★★★☆

Route 16 of 33 from left to right on The Great Red Book Area, with Great Red Book on its left and Zero Shot on its right. The Great Red Book Area has 33 routes, from 5.5 PG13 to 5.12a; this is the hardest.

First ascent: FFA: Joshua Janes & Andy Hansen - November 2011FA: Josh Thompson, Joanne & Danny Urioste - September 2011

Description

Although only 50' long, Bury the Hatchet has great moves and achieves a rather spectacular position. Well worth climbing if you're up at the Great Red Book. Climb the first pitch of that route (5.7), and belay. From the anchor, continue up 20' to the weakness in the steep right wall of the Book. After making a reachy clip, unleash the fury and perform a burly hand traverse on decent holds past two more bolts before rocking up onto an exposed perch on the arete. Belay here off bolts and either continue with the final 5.10a pitch of Animal Boy or lower/rap back to the first anchor of the Great Red Book. One more 100' rap takes you to the ground. This project was envisioned, equipped, and graciously opened by Josh Thompson.

Protection

A light rack for the Great Red Book and three draws (optional 0.5 Camalot with a long sling protects making the first clip).

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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