Monkey Trench Left Variation
V7-8 boulder
First ascent: unknown
Description
Shares the start with Monkey Trench (or Highroad/Spring Loaded), then once you get to the stand start jug pinch, go left (but not too far to link into Cherry Garcia), then work up the seam with some small holds, then top out. The stand start is noted as V6 in the guidebook (Monkey Wrench Left). Sit Start should add about 1 or may be 2 v grades. However I'm not certain of the grade due to my lack of experience.I do not claim FA as I'm sure this has been done, but I have not seen this variation done anywhere on the internet nor in the guidebook. When I saw this in the guidebook and tried it, there was no chalk on the top half of the boulder. Although the sit start takes away some stars from this climb, it does add endurance component to the climb and makes the finish of the stand interesting. If you are there and did everything else (Monkey Trench, Spring Loaded, etc.), this is worth checking out.Video: https://youtu.be/11UJ_hEfTBU
Location
Start as Monkey Trench and link into Monkey Wrench Left to work up the seam and top out straight up.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Red Spring (aka Turtle Shell) Boulder
- Cherry Garcia V3
- Turkey V5-
- The High Road V7
- Turtle on a Half Shell V5
- Monkey Wrench V7-
- Spring Board V3
- Monkey Trench V9-
- Eat Your Breakfast V7
- The Low Road V2
- Spring Loaded V8
- Smack Shabwack V5
- Jugs V1
- Spring Break V2+
- Basketball Diaries V3
- Left Varnish V2-3
- Monkey Wrench Left V8
- Tortoise And The Hare V8
Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions