Ebony Way
5.9 trad · 2 pitches · 300 ft · ★★★☆
Route 4 of 22 from left to right on East Face, with Pauline's Pentacle on its left and Cookie Monster on its right. East Face has 22 routes, from 5.7 to 5.12; 12 are harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: Jorge & Joanne Urioste, late 1990s
Description
A fun route with classic potential just left of cookie monster. It climbs near the first pitch of cookie monster for the first pitch, and the money second pitch of the lesser climbed route 'Pauline's Pentacle' to the left. It has a spectacular bolted section to link the two with very fun climbing through patina jugs. P1: 5.8 - Climb the crack system that starts 10 feet left of Cookie Monster. After about 100 ft, clip a bolt and start trending left. Clip a few more bolts over the next thirty feet and belay at a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor. P2: 5.9 - This is the second / money pitch of Pauline's Pentacle. Climb up and slightly right before traversing left on a nice varnished rail. Trend up and left up the first dihedral/crack system you come across, eventually merging into the obvious varnished dihedral. Climbing and pro is excellent throughout this section. Rock quality drops a bit at the end of pitch, but the climbing is easy. Ends at a two-bolt anchor. Unless finishing up CITH, I'd recommend rapping here. Possible with a single 70 by using an intermittent anchor between P1 and the ground. See Topo. Alternatively, climb onwards to merge with cookie monster on the ledge and finish up CITH. It is also possible to rap with a 70m from a tat anchor 30 ft above this ledge to the last anchor of this route.
Location
Alternate: Start in the crack system 10 ft left of cookie monster
Protection
standard rack
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Mescalito Direct — Class 3
Access
Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.
More routes on East Face
- Pauligk Pillar 5.7+
- Centerfold 5.10a R
- Deep Space 5.9+
- Y2K 5.10a
- The Walker Spur 5.10b/c R
- Welcome to Red Rocks 5.12
- Pine Nuts 5.10-
- Black Widow Hollow 5.9
- Left of Disco 5.10b/c PG13
- Splitting Hares 5.9
- Too Many Tantrums 5.7
- Pauline's Pentacle 5.10a
- Cookie Monster 5.7
- C11H17NO3 5.8+ R
- The Wasp 5.10-
- The Next Century 5.10c PG13
- Bloodline 5.10+
- Crunchy Cat 5.8- PG13
- Mescalito - Original Route 5.7
- This Ain't No Disco 5.10a PG13
- When A Stranger Calls 5.8