Short Circuit
5.11b trad · 60 ft · ★★★☆
Route 3 of 16 from left to right on Dark Shadows Wall, with Parental Guidance on its left and Risky Business on its right. Dark Shadows Wall has 16 routes, from 5.8 to 5.12a R; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Mike Ward & Nick Nordblom - 1988
Description
Begin just right of Parental Guidance on a long block forming a ledge at the base of the wall. Mantle up to an excellent small TCU placement, then make a difficult move past this to a stance. A crucial #1 Camalot overhead can be placed (height dependent) before pulling up into the undercling allows clipping of the first of five bolts. Continue upwards with a thin high-step/mantle, and finally thin but positive edges to the anchor. This route previously featured a fixed pin which has been gone for some time now. Because the #1 Camalot is behind a semi-hollow flake and shorter climbers may not even be able to place this cam to begin with, I believe this route *could* be R-rated. If you're tall enough, and if the cam holds, then it's totally G-rated.
Protection
0.3 Camalot, #1 Camalot, 5 bolts, bolted anchor.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Mescalito Direct — Class 3
Access
Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.
More routes on Dark Shadows Wall
- Peyote Power 5.9
- Extra Credit 5.10a
- Heart of Darkness 5.11 PG13
- Chasing Shadows 5.9
- Dark Shadows (Full) 5.8
- Sandstone Sandwich 5.10c R
- Dark Shadows 5.8
- Slot Machine 5.10
- Edge Dressing 5.10c
- Excellent Adventure 5.11b R
- Risky Business 5.10c R
- Negro Blanco 5.10+ R
- Parental Guidance 5.12a R
- Dream Safari 5.11- R
- Lost Voices 5.8 R