Gemstone
5.10- trad · 2 pitches · 280 ft · ★★★☆
Route 2 of 5 from left to right on Gemstone Gully, with Fear and Loathing on its left and Tower of Jewels on its right. Gemstone Gully has 5 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11a; 1 is harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: Richard Harrison & Nick Nordblom - 1982
Description
Gemstone is the "other" climb high up in Gemstone Gully. I do not recommend this route as a destination in and of itself, but if you make the hike up there to do Fear and Loathing (perhaps the best 5.10+/5.11- crack in southern Nevada), Gemstone is a worthy way to finish your day. At the very least it'll help you appreciate how good Fear and Loathing is. Begin on a boulder beneath a beautiful southeast-facing panel of varnished rock (the route is clearly visible from the Pine Creek TH) and climb the left-arching hand crack to an anchor. Continue up choss, or rappel: The route actually has two pitches, but we had no interest in climbing the second pitch (you'll see why) so I cannot comment on it. Note: There are strange layers of exfoliating patina on the inside of the crack that make for unnerving gear placements - exercise judgement when protecting this pitch.
Protection
Contrary to info in the guidebook and on the Fear and Loathing route page, an appropriate rack for this route is as follows: 1-2x 0.5 Camalots 2-3x 0.75 Camalots 3-4x #1 Camalots 3-4x #2 Camalots 1-2x #3 Camalots Don't bring wires or any cams smaller than a 0.5 Camalot - you won't find places for them. A 70m rope makes getting down fairly easy; a 60m rope might work with some rope tricks... watch your ends.
Access
Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.
More routes on Gemstone Gully
- Fear and Loathing 5.11a
- Blue Feathers 5.10+
- Tri-Burro Bridge 5.10 PG13
- Tower of Jewels 5.9