Mushroom People

5.10c trad · 100 ft · ★★★★

First ascent: D Diegelmann, R. Grandstaff, G. Child, '79

Description

This is a great route, but would not be fun in the sun. The black varnish we love as edges makes for a slick glass like surface devoid of friction or significant features in places. Still, the moves are stellar and the climb nice, long, and sustained. I had a blast on this route. Be warned in advance, due to lack of friction and features, the grade of this climb is quite height dependent. A 5'10" climber with ape-like arms (me) or a 6'0" man will find the grade about right. It will be a little easier for the very tall and could be much harder for the very short. Approach the Brass Wall and mark up the twin splitters on the left end, 'Topless Twins' and then look slightly left to a peerless dark face, cut by a thin crack and offset. This crack leads up 100' to a huge round hueco, and is none other than Mushroom People. Climb up the route, placing a few pieces for a low 5.9 crux, then continue up and onward to a reachy crux at a slight offset with slippery feet. Past the crux continue up and left again with good holds, good rest and good gear to a fixed anchor. Rap 95' to the ground on a 60M rope. 2 ropes are not necessary as per the Swain guidebook if you have a 60M.

Protection

A healthy set of stoppers including brass, plus cams from small to 3". Tricams optional. A 60M rope just makes the rap with a meter or two to spare.

Access

Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.

More routes on Brass Wall

• Heavy Spider Karma 5.6
• Birdlaw 5.10b
• LojVegas 5.5
• The Hidden Persuaders 5.9 R
• Brass Balls 5.10
• Sniveler 5.6 PG13
• No Laughing Matter 5.10-
• Bush Pilots 5.10a R
• Alternative Facts 5.11b/c
• The Black Hole 5.10
• Bus Stops Here 5.8-
• Simpatico 5.10- PG13
• Sky Dive 5.11c PG13
• Serious Business 5.11a
• One Stop in Tonopah 5.10a
• Spectrum 5.11b
• Zen and the Art of Web Spinning 5.5
• Psycho Date 5.10b PG13
• Tinkerbellfusse 5.8 X
• Raptor 5.10c PG13
• Nowhere Man 5.8+
• Valore 5.8-
• Chocolate Covered Bacon 5.10c
• Fungus folks 5.11a/b R
• Topless Twins 5.9
• Mystery Mushroom? 5.10c PG13
• Birdland 5.7+
• Varnishing Point 5.8+
• Go Greyhound 5.11- PG13
• Rawlpindi 5.7
• Unfinished Business 5.6
• The Big Horn 5.8+
• Bird Cage 5.7
• Ripcord 5.12a PG13
• Pazookieland 5.7
• Cut Away 5.10d R
• Sea of Holes 5.10- R
• Arachnoworld 5.4
• Moons Way 5.9-
• Rogue Fungus 5.10
• Shifting Narratives 5.11-
• Super Greens 5.8+
• Super S 5.9+
• Table Greens 5.9
• Varnishing Fact 5.9+

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