Twentynine Posers

5.11d trad · 60 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 4 of 6 from left to right on Beer and Ice Gully, with Moisture Brau on its left and Jimmy Marshall Memorial Route on its right. Beer and Ice Gully has 6 routes, from 5.8 to 5.13a; 1 is harder.

First ascent: Paul Van Betten, Bob Yoho - 1987

Description

This is a super fun, well-protected route that packs a lot of pump into a short length. Step off a ramp to an undercling flake and work up towards two bolts on the hueco-covered face. The climbing above the second bolt is a bit run out but this could be tamed with a 0.5 Camalot in a pocket, possibly a #1 or #2 Camalot in a pocket, and possibly a medium-large wire up higher. The pump is severe but eventually a stem across the chasm provides a dramatic reprieve. Continue up to a rap tree at the back of the alcove. This route could use rebolting and a proper anchor at the top of the wall which is the natural finish.

Location

Begin a few hundred feet up the Beer and Ice Gully in a deep alcove on the right side.

Protection

Cams from 0.2 Camalot to 0.75 Camalot are adequate, but a larger cam or a larger wire might be useful (I didn't have them). Two bolts.

Access

Timed-entry reservation required to enter the Scenic Drive October to May.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone is fragile when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt.

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