Dances with Beagles
5.11+ R trad · 3 pitches · 400 ft · ★★☆☆
Route 1 of 7 from left to right on Eagle Wall, with Eagle Dance on its right. Eagle Wall has 7 routes, from 5.8 to 5.11b/c; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Todd Swain and Jeff Rhodes, 1993
Description
Dances with Beagles is a three-pitch line that heads up the left side of the Eagle Wall approximately 200' left of Eagle Dance. The climbing is fairly good but is detracted from by a lot of crumbling holds and some bad bolts. Begin about 30' left of a two-tiered pillar/150' left of the big pillar that marks the start of Eagle Dance. You should be able to spot a thin seam protected by two bolts, and if you look carefully, a two bolt anchor above.
Protection
Bring a double set of wires, a few Aliens or TCU's, 18 draws, and two ropes.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Eagle Wall
- Levitation 29 5.11b/c
- Ringtail 5.10d
- Mountain Beast 5.11-
- Eagle Dance 5.10c A0+
- Rainbow Buttress 5.8+
- Kaleidoscope Cracks 5.8