Head of State
5.11b trad · 20 pitches · 3,000 ft · ★★★☆
Route 4 of 10 from left to right on Horseshoe Wall, with Lady Wilson's Cleavage on its left and Fin Bagging Society on its right. Horseshoe Wall has 10 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11c; 1 is harder.
First ascent: Sam Boyce, Kyle Willis Oct 2016
Description
Head of State forges a wondering but somewhat direct line up "the fin", a faint buttress in the middle of the mountain between Lady of Wilson's cleavage and Dogma. The route in general is not super sustained and climbs more like a long alpine rock ridge than a red rocks wall. The climbing is high quality and varied on generally good rock. Imagine resolution arete but much much longer. This is a pretty solid grade V and makes for a huge day, there are ample bivy ledges, the highlight being the soft and perfectly flat ledge at the base of the "kraken" chimney. Bail Options: There are a few retreat options that I am aware of, I am more familiar with some than others. The first would be to descend after climbing the apron. After lowering into Willie's you can descend this gully, I have not been in the upper part of this and cannot speak to it. A better option may be to climb the 5.8 slab (Pitch 10) and traverse a ledge system here to sherwood forest. The scramble between pitch 13 and 14 appears to be part of some sort of scramble that leads down to the base of LWC. Above the Kraken you will likely have to leave gear to rappel. The bolts at the top of pitch 15 seem like they would be a 70M or so rappel to sherwood forrest, this is untested. There is still tat in place from where we bailed on our first attempt. From the top of pitch 17, a 60M rappel leads down the face to a ledge with a small tree. A 65M rappel from here leads down to sherwood forest.
Location
Park at the south oak creek lot, follow the road straight up to the pimple, cut left onto the obvious ridgeline when natural, follow this ridge straight to the base of the first pitch 1 to 1.5 hrs coordinates for base of route in UTM's 11S 637065 3995139
Protection
Singles .1 to 5 with doubles .3 to 3. Single set of offset nuts including rp’s. Optional 6 pending comfort on 9+ OW. 70m rope is nice
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Sherwood Forest — Class 4
- Approach to Head of State — Class 3
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Horseshoe Wall
- DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) 5.10+
- Lady Wilson's Cleavage 5.9
- Dogma 5.11c
- Gwondonna Land Boogie 5.10a/b
- Pink Tornado Left 5.9+
- Just Missed the Cleavage 5.9
- Sentimental Journey 5.9
- Fin Bagging Society 5.11- PG13
- Willy's Wild Wide 5.10+