Immaculate Conception
5.11b trad · 130 ft · ★★★★
Route 14 of 30 from left to right on Brownstone Wall, with Pro Life on its left and Corruption of the Jesuit on its right. Brownstone Wall has 30 routes, from 5.5 to 5.12b; 5 are harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
Immaculate Conception is a really awesome trad pitch that would be a total classic were it not for some loose holds high on the pitch. From below, this thing is intimidating, but as you climb, the secrets reveal themselves and it all comes together. So good! Approach via either the first three pitches of Pro Choice (recommended) or Senior Dimensions (not recommended) and set up your base camp on the Party Ledge. Climb the first bit of P4 of Senior Dimensions (the short left-facing corner), but stay in the corner at first and then continue up a steep, left-leaning crack. This will bring you to jugs below the blunt upper arete. Thin moves up the arete give way to easier face climbing (and a few portable holds near the top). Ultimately, you’ll reach a bolted anchor shared with Pro Life on a ledge out left. Descend with an 80m rope (watch the ends) or two ropes. Of the five pitches that begin from high on this section of the wall (Pro Choice, Pro Life, Immaculate Conception, Corruption of the Jesuit, and Senior Dimensions) this is my favorite and arguably the best.
Location
Starts from the Party Ledge atop P3 of Pro Choice or Senior Dimensions.
Protection
2x Small to 0.5 Camalot. 1x 0.75, #1 Camalot. Wires. 80m rope or two ropes.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Fastest Juniper Approach — Class 2
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Brownstone Wall
- Pegg Leg 5.11b
- Birthday Cake 5.5
- Cat Scratch Fever 5.8
- The Nightcrawler 5.10+
- Me, Myself and I 5.7
- Hueco Thanks 5.7
- Three Choclateers 5.9+ PG13
- Peanut Brittle 5.7 R
- Arms Reduction 5.9
- Hourglass Diversion 5.9
- Ten Minute Shift 5.11+
- J + J Swerve 5.10-
- High Anxiety 5.10 PG13
- Senior Dimensions 5.10b R
- Corruption of the Jesuit 5.11c
- Requiem for a Tadpole 5.9+
- Kentucky's Finest 5.11b PG13
- Armatron 5.9-
- Sand Castle 5.10a/b
- Black Dagger 5.8 PG13
- Mayday Malefactor 5.10c
- Pro Life 5.12b
- Pro Choice 5.11a
- Sweet Thin 5.9
- Time's Up 5.12a
- Chocolate and Cheese 5.11c
- Poopship Destroyer 5.10-
- Stone the Crows 5.10
- Voodoo Lady 5.11c