Unknown Juice

5.10b trad · 2 pitches · 150 ft · ★★☆☆

Route 5 of 18 from left to right on Refrigerator Wall, with Fahedral on its left and The Ice Tray on its right. Refrigerator Wall has 18 routes, from 5.9 to 5.12b PG13; 11 are harder.

Description

Not sure who put up this route, but too good and too much fun to not share. For P1 either climb the first pitch of swing shift (5.6) or go straight up the left slab, aiming for a thin crack that is a few feet right of the right facing dihedral. Very little to no pro until you get to this dihedral, but the climbing is on excellent rock (5.9 R). You'll want small gear for this one After this right facing dihedral I went out right, pulling the roof, and clipping an old piton shortly after. From here you'll see the chains ~20ft above you. P2 - Incredible 5.10 crack climbing From the anchor, step out left into a finger crack that quickly widens to a hand crack that is slightly overhung. Perfect jams lead you to a point where another crack appears on your right. This crack also has perfect hand jams / finger locks in many places. Follow the cracks straight up to a nice big belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with chains. There appears to be a third pitch that follows bolts around the varnished arete out right. Didn't get a chance to climb this pitch yet.

Protection

double rack to 3

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Refrigerator Wall

Open the climbing map · Search all routes