Big Hat, No Cattle

5.11c PG13 trad · 2 pitches · 300 ft · ★★★★

Route 3 of 6 from left to right on Cauldron Wall, with Achilles on its left and The Regatta on its right. Cauldron Wall has 6 routes, from 5.9 to 5.11c PG13; this is the hardest.

First ascent: Unknown.

Description

This route climbs the white-edged arete that divides the left and right halves of the Cauldron Wall. Expect fantastic, difficult climbing! Solo up easy rock for 20’ to the start ledge shared with The Regatta and Waterboys; belay from the left end of this ledge.

Location

Hike into Icebox Canyon. Walk up to the Necromancer. Continue around the corner and follow a bushy climbers' trail up to the Cauldron Wall. Big Hat, No Cattle climbs the white-edged arete just a bit left of The Regatta.

Protection

2x tiny to 0.3 Camalot 1x 0.4, 0.5, & 0.75 Camalot Wires optional Many draws and slings 70m rope

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

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