Buffalo Soldiers
5.12c R trad · 6 pitches · 750 ft · ★★★★
Route 2 of 2 from left to right on Buffalo Wall, with Tatanka on its left. Buffalo Wall has 2 routes, from 5.10 A2-3 R to 5.12c R; this is the hardest.
First ascent: FA (P1-5): Paul Van Betten & Sal Mamusia - 1998. FFA (P1-5): Brian Bowman & Chad Umbel - 2009. FFA Direct Finish (P6): Unknown.
Description
This excellent climb tackles the right side of the Buffalo Wall in six challenging pitches. Along with the Rainbow Wall and the Black Velvet Wall, the Buffalo Wall is the third great wall in Red Rocks, and although it is the smallest of the three, it is easily the most committing and intimidating. Likewise, Buffalo Soldiers, though "only" 5.12, is a route with both difficult climbing and a few serious sections. The FFA was done with top-down rehearsal, but I believe attempting the route ground-up is not an insane proposition. The climbing is great and the location is stunning, but there's plenty of soft rock, fragile holds, and some loose blocks up there: Don't check your technique at the door and crank your way up this thing lest you destroy the climb or hurt someone. On that note, a helmet might be a good idea. Climb gets morning sun and afternoon shade, a good cold-weather outing. Begin on the right side of the wall on a nice, level, polished ledge system below a short left-facing corner with a thin crack.
Location
Approach from Icebox Canyon or rap in via an approach from Rocky Gap Road. Right side of the Buffalo Wall. Look for a series of discontinuous, but obvious, left-facing corners.
Protection
2x 0.2 Camalot/Blue Alien to #1 Camalot 1x #2, #3 Camalot (if you are OK with wide cracks and run outs*) A set of DMM brass/aluminum offsets (*)If you are not OK with wide cracks - and especially run outs - you probably shouldn't attempt this route... but a single #4 and #5 Camalot could protect some of the wide sections.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Buffalo Wall
- Tatanka 5.10 A2-3 R