Striptease
5.12b/c trad · 100 ft · ★★★☆
Route 9 of 10 from left to right on Winter Heat Wall, with High Class Ho on its left and Hole in the Pants on its right. Winter Heat Wall has 10 routes, from 5.7+ to 5.13 R; 1 is harder.
First ascent: Bob Conz, Tony Yinger, Danny Rider - 2002
Description
Striptease is a fantastic pitch that scales a gently overhanging panel of cracked varnish on the right side of the Winter Heat Wall. Begin at the top of the ramp on a finger crack shared with High Class Ho. Some gear will get you to the first bolt, then pull the roof and prepare thyself for battle - a building pump leads to the top of the wall. The anchor is set back from the edge (cordelette useful?) and although the business end of this rig sports 8 bolts you may wish for a small cam to protect the cruxy moves between bolts one and two. Great climbing that is only docked a star because of a few brittle holds.
Protection
8x draws and some finger-sized gear.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Winter Heat Wall
- Hole in the Pants 5.7+
- Winter Heat 5.11b
- The Reign of Swain 5.10d
- Couldn't be Schmooter 5.9-
- Judy's Route 5.10d
- Nuttin Could be Finer 5.8 PG13
- Autumnal Frost 5.13 R
- High Class Ho 5.10a/b
- Seasonal Controversies 5.11d PG13