City Slickers
5.11a trad · 50 ft · ★☆☆☆
Route 1 of 11 from left to right on The Playground (AKA The Mall), with Country Bumpkin on its right. The Playground (AKA The Mall) has 11 routes, from 5.9+ to 5.11d; 3 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: R Marsh, D Burroughs, W Broussard - 1990
Description
Start in the tunnel to the left of the formation and chimney up to a good 0.5 Camalot placement. Swing wildly onto the face, clip a bolt, and do some powerful moves to access the crack. This can be followed to an anchor at the top of the wall.
Location
The left-most route on the upper tier of the Mall.
Protection
0.5 Camalot, #4 Camalot, and a full set of wires. The anchor is really bad and should be replaced. If you’re not up for the task some cord and a ‘biner would back up the sketchy rusty chain.
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on The Playground (AKA The Mall)
- Messie Nessie 5.11d
- Practice Crack 5.9+
- Show Burro 5.10+
- Repo Man 5.11b
- Lick it 5.11
- Dirty Little Girl 5.10d
- Country Bumpkin 5.11a
- Headmaster Ritual 5.11c
- The Figurine 5.10a
- Electric Orange Peeler 5.10b