Caliban

5.8+ PG13 sport · 60 ft · ★★☆☆

First ascent: Sal Mamusia, Paul Van Betten; 1993

Description

This route climbs Cannibal Crag about 20 feet to the left of the left-leaning crack on the south-east side of the rock. Climb past three bolts to a cold shut anchor. The most obvious line takes you quite far right past the first bolt and then you have to swing back left to the second. Named for a moon of Uranus. A little spicy. You can walk up the back, anchor into the bolts on the flat top of the Cannibal boulder, and then rappel down to the chains of Caliban to set it up as a TR, as pictured in first photo.

Protection

Three bolts. Optional #0.2-0.5 cam placements above last bolt.

Access

The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.

Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.

More routes on Cannibal Crag

Open the Red Rock climbing map · Is the rock dry? Live conditions