Millepede
5.10 trad · 90 ft · ★★★☆
Route 12 of 14 from left to right on Burlap Buttress, with Three K on its left and Wish Bone on its right. Burlap Buttress has 14 routes, from 5.7+ to 5.12b; 5 are harder, and 2 others are the same grade.
First ascent: unknown
Description
This is a great little pitch. Located 40 feet right of Arrow Place, begin in a left-facing corner and climb up passing two bolts (a very loose flake lies between them - belayer beware). Continue up the corner until it is possible to step right into an attractive arching undercling flake. The slab under this flake has good footholds and the flake itself accepts finger-sized gear. At it's end, step up to an anchor.
Protection
Single set from tips to #2 Camalot.
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Burlap Direct — Class 4
Access
The 13-mile Scenic Drive requires a timed-entry reservation October to May and has seasonal gate hours. Calico Basin and Kraft Mountain sit outside the Scenic Drive and need no reservation.
Wet rock: Aztec sandstone loses much of its strength when wet. Do not climb for at least 24 to 48 hours after rain or snowmelt, or holds break off and routes are permanently damaged.
More routes on Burlap Buttress
- The Prism Corner 5.9
- Children of the Sun 5.10b
- Teabob 5.8+
- Three K 5.11b
- Yucca Butt 5.10+
- Wish Bone 5.9 R
- K-Day 5.12b
- Kidney Stone 5.11c PG13
- Arch Rival 5.11d
- Poultroonicus aka Moving Over Stone 5.10-
- Leaky Facet 5.9+
- Arrow Place 5.9
- Dogland 5.7+