Deceiver
5.12b sport · 80 ft · 8 bolts · ★★★☆
The Glass House has 16 routes, from 5.11a to 5.13d; 9 are harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: John Heiman, late 1990s
Description
This is a great little pitch that deserves more attention. Powerful liebacking leads to shake. Crux moves to one more shake (just below the old anchor for the route to the left) before an improbable traverse right on a two-finger pocket. Finish up easier climbing on the arete. Surprisingly good climbing and very interesting sequences, but use caution making the third clip.
Location
Follow the handline left from the main section of the wall; Deceiver is the righthand of the two routes.
Protection
8 bolts to lower-off anchor
Access
Parts of the range are the Mt. Charleston Wilderness, where motorized equipment isn't allowed: no power drills. Dogs must be leashed at trailheads. Campfires are banned year-round within a mile of homes in Kyle and Lee Canyons, and the Forest Service adds seasonal fire restrictions in summer, so check before you go.
More routes on The Glass House
- Gouge 5.12c
- Throwin' Stones 5.12d
- Diamond Eyes 5.13a
- Cracked Glass 5.11a
- Glass Monkey 5.11d
- Jet Stream 5.13a
- #vegancat 5.12a
- Break Free 5.13d
- Glass Half Full 5.11b
- Glass To Mouth 5.13c
- Link-up: All Glass No Breaks 5.13b
- Link-up: Throwin' Hands 5.13-
- Machine Hearts 5.12a/b
- Ultrasonic Weapons 5.13-
- Windex 5.12b