Super Spreader 35
5.12b sport · 5 pitches · 460 ft · ★★★☆
Lake Mead Buttress has 17 routes, from 5.8+ to 5.13a; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Gary Newmeyer, Thomas Gilmore, Josh Diggs, and Jesse Ramos, Winter 2023
Description
This [no longer] newest addition to LMB is the most difficult route on the buttress. Not only is it the hardest route but the first pitch is potentially one of the highest quality low elevation limestone pitches in Vegas. The rest of the pitches are all excellent as well and the last pitch roof has spectacular position high above the strip. P1 115' 5.12b (8 draws to the lower offs or 11/12 to the better stance) Stellar climbing through high quality blue and orange stone. Lower offs installed at 35 meters as this pitch is worth the approach alone and will become a popular single pitch but if you are still feeling saucy, and are continuing the route, push on another few bolts to a two bolt belay at a stance next to a large barrel cactus. P2 115' 5.10c (12-14 draws) Technical rising traverse leads to a steep pull to gain the comfortable belay ledge. Note: There is a dedicated rappel anchor straight down from the P2 anchor. Do not try to rappel back to the P1 anchor. P3 115' 5.11b (12-14 draws) Technical vertical climbing leads to a thin crux sequence and then a rising rightward traverse to the anchor. The fixed draws on this pitch are to keep you on the rappel line on your way back down. Welcome to SkyCrag: Move the belay onto the expansive ledge. Both variations share the first 3 bolts. P4 Left Variation 115' 5.11c (13 draws) Delicately climb choss through the first 2 bolts. The choss is short lived and you are rewarded with spectacular vertical climbing to a really fun roof crux. Lower offs installed to lower back to the big ledge. (there is also a higher anchor if you want to summit and walk off) P4 Right Variation 115' 5.11d (10 draws) Essentially the identical twin to the left variation but slightly burlier through the roof. Lower offs installed to lower back to the big ledge. (there is also a higher anchor if you want to summit and walk off) Descent: Rappelling is quick and easy; 70m rope is required. Both variations to P4 have lower offs so lower off to SkyCrag ledge. Rappel from P3 anchor to P2 anchor. *The fixed draws on P3 are to keep you on the rappel line.* Rappel from P2 anchor straight down to a dedicated rappel anchor. Lastly, rappel to terra firma.
Location
Far right on Lake Mead Buttress. About 200 feet left of the rappel gully in impressive steep orange rock
Protection
draws and helmet
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Alternative descent to single rappel, Lake Mead Buttress — Class 3
- Descent walk off Lake Mead Buttress to Buckskin Cliff Shadows — Class 2
- Approach to Lake Mead Buttress — Class 2
Access
Much of the range is the La Madre Mountain Wilderness, managed jointly by the BLM (Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area) and the Forest Service (Spring Mountains National Recreation Area). In the wilderness, no motorized vehicles or mechanized equipment, and no gluing, chipping or chiseling of the rock.
More routes on Lake Mead Buttress
- Mr. Bones' Wild Ride 5.9+ X
- Bone Collector 5.9
- Contagion 5.10a/b
- Lake Mead Buttress Original Route 5.9+ R
- Anti-Vax Crack 5.11a/b
- Booster Direct 5.13a
- Booster Shot 5.12b
- Herd Immunity 5.11a
- Killer Nano Robot Infection 5.12a
- La Madre Flu 5.9
- Land Before Time 5.8+
- Mutation 5.12a/b
- Patient Zero 5.10a
- Sleeper 5.11d
- Tectonic Tango 5.11b
- West Side Story 5.10a