Barnacle
5.12a sport · 100 ft · 17 bolts · ★★★☆
Upper Tier has 13 routes, from 5.10+ PG13 to 5.12b; 1 is harder, and 1 other is the same grade.
First ascent: Thomas Gilmore, January 2024
Description
The crux sequence on this rig is some of my favorite climbing at the crag. Unfortunately, this climb loses a star for some shenanigans at the start to ensure your belayer doesn't get yeeted into a large cactus if you whip. Shenanigans: Back clean the first 2 draws as you are climbing. Clip extended alpines on bolts 3 and 4. Climb the rest as normal. This will reduce rope drag and allow your belayer to stand in a comfortable stance without being pulled into a cactus and yucca if you whip. See photo for beta.
Protection
70m rope. 17 bolts
Hikes, approaches and descents
- Approach to Crustacean Crag (north start) — Class 2
- Approach to Crustacean Crag (south start) — Class 2
Access
Much of the range is the La Madre Mountain Wilderness, managed jointly by the BLM (Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area) and the Forest Service (Spring Mountains National Recreation Area). In the wilderness, no motorized vehicles or mechanized equipment, and no gluing, chipping or chiseling of the rock.
More routes on Upper Tier
- Adrift 5.10b
- Ammonite 5.11+
- Atlantis 5.10b
- Brachiopod 5.11a
- Crynoids 5.11a
- Invertebrates 5.10+ PG13
- Naegleria Fowleri 5.11c
- Nautilus 5.11d
- Neptune's Kiss 5.12a
- Nudibranch 5.12b
- Spinal Tap 5.11+
- The Crusty Crab 5.10b